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If you currently own a dog that seems a bit hard to train then you might be considering buying an electronic dog training collar. While the idea of using an electronic collar may be appealing it is important to understand that it is just another method of training your dog. It is not the be all and end all of dog training, but used properly it can deliver very good results when other training methods just don’t seem to work.

When you go to buy an electronic dog collar be aware that you will find several different types that have differences in how they work. The type most people are familiar with is the electronic shock collar, which emits a low voltage charge that gets the dog attention.

There are two other types of electric dog collars, one that works by emitting a high pitched sound that the dog finds extremely annoying and the other choice is a citronella collar that works by squirting citronella in front of the dog’s nose. Dogs do not particularly like the smell of citronella. No matter which version you choose they all work by getting your dogs attention and annoying it in an unpleasant way. Dogs, much like humans, will do whatever is necessary to avoid these annoyances even if it means obeying their owner.

Using an electronic dog training collar is rather straightforward, but remember, it is only a tool to help you achieve the results you want with your dog. The collar won’t train your dog for you; it is a tool that you use to reprimand your dog when it does not obey your commands.

For instance when training your dog to sit give the command, push gently but firmly on the lower back which makes your dog assume the sitting position. You must do this several times so the dog understands what you are asking it to do. Only after demonstrating to the dog several times what he is to do with a certain command do you try and give the command without any human intervention, ie pushing his but down. A dog that catches on quick and obeys should be praised and rewarded with a treat. If the dog refuses to obey this is the time to use the electronic collar. After getting your dogs attention with the collar start over by giving the command and pushing his hind end down into the sitting position and repeat the whole process over.

One of the more popular uses for an electronic dog training collar is the invisible fence. By running a thin wire around the outside of your yard the dog that sets off a beeping alarm whenever your dog approaches the property boundaries the dog learns to stay on your property and not wander off. If the dog ignores the beeping and continues to approach the boundary the collar will give a low grade shock that gets his attention. Soon the dog learns to recognize the beeping and what ignoring the warning means.

It should be mentioned that while this method works with the majority of dogs if your dog is overly aggressive no amount of beeping, citronella, or electrical shock will keep him from running through an invisible fence boundary.

Using an electronic dog training collar is a good alternative to training a hard to train dog as long as it is used for its intended purpose. This type of dog collar should be used as a training tool that helps modify a dog’s behavior. It should never be used as a way to punish or in any way inflict needless pain on a dog. Used correctly chances are you will only need to use it sparingly and before long your dog will learn to obey your commands without it.

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This is a few of my N Scale Model Trains

When it comes to weathering, many model railroaders have firm ideas. Many, especially collectors, feel that changing their rolling stock in any way compromises it’s integrity and value. Others, looking to add some true realism to their collection, try to make their trains looks more like
what’s really rolling down the tracks. Even though they may have just purchased a shiny, new Pennsy it should still look like it’s seen better days in the last 50 years. To achieve this result takes a lot of effort and skill but with a little perseverance you can have some incredibly realistic-looking pieces.

Anyone who has ever seen a train can tell you that none of them are pristine, unless they’ve just rolled off the assembly line. As a matter of fact, most of them are pretty banged up. Weather, neglect and everyday wear and tear will have their effects on train cars, so why shouldn’t the miniature version in your basement reflect the same conditions? I’m not suggesting grabbing up your expensive collectables and deliberately damaging them so they look worn in. I’m talking about taking some of your less expensive rolling stock and making it look a little more like the real thing.

I recommend starting out with the cheapest cars you can find and start from there. Finding some unwanted boxcars or hoppers is pretty easy to do. If you mess things up with these, you’ll only be out a few dollars but the lessons will be invaluable. On the other hand, you could wind up with some truly choice cars. I’m not going to get into airbrushing because it’s a big mess, even though some have found terrific results from it. Instead I’ll concentrate on hand painting for more depth and realism. The first step is to get rid of that glossy shine. There are a number of companies producing dull-coat sprays. Find a product you like and lightly spray your rolling stock to dull things down a bit. Do this in a well-ventilated area or you’ll find yourself getting a little dopey from the fumes.

Gather up plenty of pictures of real trains to get a feel how different types of cars weather. Notice how some areas tend to rust out more than others? Or how certain cars seem to have more damage from forklifts? Randomly weathering your stock is ok, but true realism calls for some research. Even better, if you can get some photos of the full-sized versions of your collection, you can practically duplicate them.
Weathering requires finesse, so you’ll need to pick up some items before continuing. You’ll want a few small paintbrushes, with short, stiff bristles. Grab some water based acrylic paints in colors in the red, brown, black and white ranges. You’re going to need these for creating rust. Pick up some black and brown leather dye, black ink, an eyedropper, Q-tips, rubbing alcohol, a soft bristled brush and some paper towels, as well.

Make a mixture of alcohol and ink in a small bottle and use the eyedropper to rinse your stock. Allow the mixture to seep into all the corners and cracks of your cars. This will add some definition and depth as it draws out the details. You can also use this concoction to create streaking effects to great result. Experiment with the mixture to find the right level of blackness to fit your needs. Adding a dash of brown will give the effect of rust, so use this where appropriate, too.

As you go over your stock, remember to put rust on exposed metal areas. Create water streaks; add some dirt and grime, especially on the lower areas of the cars. Highlight parts that stick out (such as rivets, roof walks and steps) with light colors, like pale tan or while. Darken areas that would normally be shadowed on real trains, like in between the wheels. After each application, allow your piece to dry thoroughly before adding second coats.

I mentioned adding some dirt and grime to your stock; this is where the leather dye comes in handy. Mix up some of your leather dye in a jar with rubbing alcohol. There isn’t an exact ratio to use, whatever suites your eye will work fine. Using one of your stiff-bristled brushes, dip the brush into your jar and run it under the roofline of your car, letting it simply drip down. Use a Q-tip to soak up any excess at the bottom. You can do this as many times as you need to get the results you want. Just remember to allow each application to dry before applying the next one.

These are just some basic techniques. With a little experimenting, you’ll be able to use them to create some impressive results. Don’t give up if it seems like you’re results aren’t what you want; a little practice will get you there. If you think you’re ready for some advanced techniques, there are some great resources at the library and on the Internet. A fellow named John Allen wrote some great stuff on the subject back in the mid-1950s. It may sound a little dated, but the information he laid out then is just as relevant today. In any case, just have fun, experiment and create a layout that you’ll enjoy.

For more information visit Diecast Trains

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Step number one in getting started with any solar power setup in your home is to perform an energy audit. This is where you evaluate the amount of power (in kilowatts/hour or kilowatt hours) that you’ll need in any given day.

You will also need to take into account the site where your home is located. Geographical considerations such as climate, number of peak hours of sunlight per day, number of days of peak sunlight per year, and average rainfall will play a big role in how efficient a solar system you can design.

Any solar electric system will need, at the very least, the following components:

a collector (usually solar panels);
a mount (to put it on);
an inverter (to convert 12 volt DC power to 110 volt AC power);
a circuit breaker or fuse box and fuses & switches (to regulate the power transferring from the panels to your outlets and/or storage batteries);
(optional) one or more storage batteries;
(if you get a battery) a charge controller (to keep from over- or undercharging the battery and severely reducing its lifespan);

Once you’ve purchased all the elements of the solar system you’ve just designed, installation is fairly easy, though the simplicity of installing a solar power system does not mean you should necessarily do it yourself. There are numerous advantages to hiring a professional installer with training in both electrical systems and solar electrical systems, including knowing how to set everything up to code, should the building inspector ever have the need to look it over (ie. for insurance purposes).

If you find the right solar professional, they will instruct you in those parts of the installation that you are capable of and allow you to do some of the work yourself, saving you on some of your labor costs.

Even if you don’t decide to have a professional install your solar system, it would be well worth your while to consult one with your design to make sure it’s a viable design, one that’s taken all the necessary considerations into account. For example, there is a wide selection of panels, controllers, inverters, and batteries, each one manufactured with different requirements, each one not necessarily interchangeable with the other.

To further minimize the chances of incompatibilities between components in your solar system, consider purchasing all the elements of your set up from the same company and consulting with someone on their sales team that is knowledgeable in solar electric power.

In fact, many companies sell solar kits that contain all the components you would need to set your house up with solar power, with the certainty that all the components are compatible.

Whatever you decide, you don’t have to break the bank to try and supplant your entire power grid reliance with solar power right away and all at once. If you’re interested in availing yourself and your household of the multifold benefits of solar power, start small. Get yourself a single solar panel and see how well that works for you. When you’re ready, add on more panels, batteries, etc., one at a time as you can afford it and as your needs evolve.

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